Heres most of the stuff that ive put together so far fo it (it was an email):
Hey guys so as most of you will know we were hoping to have an expedition next Christmas. For those of you that were on the committee last year ye will know that we had intended heading to Argentina to climb Mount Mercedario. The idea was that this would be the first Irish accent of the mountain. As of yet this is unconfirmed despite our best efforts.
So seeing as I failed college and have had nothing better to do I took it upon myself to get the ball rolling on the organisation of the trip. I've read pretty much everything that's available on the mountain and running an expedition there. I've even been in touch with old Pat (Fat) Falvey; he hasn't emailed me back though.
So here's everything that I have on the trip so far, later in the year I'm actually going to try and make it to a committee meeting and we can sort out a proper sub committee etc.
Fundraising / Sponsorship:
So the majority of the funding for the trip is going to be through the Special Apps and The Arts and Sports Fund.
Apart from that there's also the Lowe Alpine Expedition Award. This would give us about €2000 max. And it's not guaranteed that we'd get it. There's have to be an application put through and if this is accepted then there would be a proposal to put forward to them. This award is for Irish expeditions only so we should definitely go for it.
Obviously we would organise some sort out some sort of deal with RDMH probably to do with any gear we need etc.
Other than that we would approach other big Irish company's but no banks!
The responsibilities of sorting all necessary funds would be the responsibility of the Fundraising Officer of the Sub- Committee.
Gear (CLUB ONLY):
Gear will be sorted by the Gear officer of the club (Garion) and next years gear officer along with whomever on the sub committee is given Gear as one of their responsibilities.
Things that would need to be sorted are:
Camping:
Tents sleeping bags Water Filters
Stoves ( Pocket Rockets don't function at high altitude MSR (XKG's Recommended),
Climbing:
Crampons
Axes
Snow Stakes
Snow Shovel
GPS
For those interested in the trip a list of the recommended personal gear is available.
Travel:
The easiest route seems to be flying from Dublin to San Juan changing flights in New York.
Flights work out at about €1000 return.
The logistics company (www.donmercedario.com.ar) provides transportation from San Juan straight to the Trailhead. This costs $370 each way and that is for a group of three. The company also includes pre-expedition services with any of their services (routes, maps, pictures and gps waypoints).
For getting from the trail head to Base Camp the company offers the option of either porters or mules and prices depend on the total weight being transported. Mules are only available to transport loads to the Base Camp of the South Face.
Depending on which route you intend to attempt the walk in can take between 1-2 days depending on speed and whether you decide to stop and make camp along the way.
Training:
A great level of fitness will be required for the trip. People who intend on going should begin training for it within the next 2 weeks. To start with people should start running a few times a week until I've managed to obtain a proper training schedule.
We will be VERY strict on this and basically if you aren't putting in the effort then you aren't going. No exceptions. This trip will be no light undertaking.
Visas / Permits:
Residents of the United Kingdom do not need visas to enter Argentina, I have contacted the Argentinean embassy to check whether we will require one and am awaiting a reply. As for permits there are none required to climb. The trip will however be required to sign a waiver with the mining company as they own the land also the people on the trip may also have to sign a contract stating that they will not damage the mining equipment. Other than that there is no real red tape. Climbers are recommended to register with the local police; they won't be much help in the case of an accident as they have no phone or radio.
Accommodation:
Depending on flight times etc accommodation may be required in San Juan. Other than that any accommodation along the way will be in tents.
Activities:
Obviously the main activity will be climbing Cerro Mercedario. As well as this it is recommended that an acclimatization climb id completed on a slightly lower mountain. If intending to climb the south face o Mercedario it is recommended that people climb Cerro Negro (5600m) for instance.
After the main objective is completed if people wish to remain n the same region and climb some other peaks they are free to do so or if people wish to travel south and Climb the Normal Route of Aconcagua it is another possibility. The biggest constraint is time and any other plans would preferably involve the whole group and would need to be cleared for insurance before hand as well.
Logistics:
Tom Earle who made an attempt on Mercedario in 2005 recommended the company
www.donmercedario.com.ar to us for our logistics needs. They will provide transport to the trail head, Mules/Porters and also the base camp tent with tables and chairs. So far they have been a great help providing information on routes etc. They were also kind enough to provide Tom and his group with a mobile phone and will most likely do the same for us.
As for getting gear over to Argentina, if weight restrictions are an issue Tom also recommended getting in touch with Pat Falvey as he has been known to bring gear for people. He will be running his annual Aconcagua expeditions at the same time as we are there.
Nutrition:
It has been recommended to us that we look into WayFare freeze dried food. Again Pat Falvey has been known to organise this and would even purchase this for us. We would simply transfer the funds to him, not a big expense. One of these meals per person per day is recommended and other for such as fruit etc can be purchased in supermarkets in San Juan. The higher you go the harder it is to digest food so you will not require as many calories for the summit days etc.
Medical:
Everyone going on the trip must have a full medical 6 weeks prior to the trip.
As well as this, vaccinations for Polio, Typhoid, Tetanus and Hepatitis A must be administered. These can be expensive but I'm hoping to work it with my sister to have her buy them through the hospital.
At least three members of the trip must have REC Level 5 (Expedition).
Routes:
There are four main options with regards to routes on Mercedario.
There's The North (Normal) Route, The South Face, The East Face and the West Face.
The west Face is totally out of the question, shit hard climbing and has never been repeated.
The North Face is the easiest option and is basically a high altitude walk. The Inca's used to do it 500 years ago to make sacrifices.
The South face consists of a 2000m 45-60 degree snow/ice slope that must be completed in 1 day followed by a -6 hour summit day. Not technically hard but very demanding.
The East face is a 45 degree (max) ice ramp. Shares BC with Normal route and camps along the way are very flexible providing you're willing to dig yourself a spot for the tent. It also shares the high camp with the Normal Route. It is said to be a moderately technical route.
Originally the idea was to attempt the North Face but that was before any research was put into other alternatives. It will need discussion and a vote to decide on the intended route. It is possible to change your mind on the walk in as there is a point where the road splits. North and East routes one way, South Face the other.
Depending n which route is chosen this will dictate the acclimatization peak.
Here is the information that the logistics company provided for each of the routes.
Normal Route (or Incas´ Route):
The normal route of Mercedario is akin to that of Aconcagua, in essence a demanding walk at high altitude following a well marked trail with some steep slopes but no real objective hazards or requirement for any major technical skills.
From El Molle, follow an animal trail through La Laguna Creek (which entrance is 400 meters above El Molle). After a four hours hike, a natural lake (Laguna Blanca) is reached. Half an hour later, La Laguna Hut, at 9850 ft, is discovered. Follow the same creek for two more hours to set Base Camp at a place called Guanaquitos (11150 ft). Normal route follows Cuesta Blanca Creek (trail on the right), crosses the formation of Los Colorados and then suffers an abrupt change in the slope. Set camp one (Cuesta Blanca, 15750 ft) after crossing a moraine field. Cuesta Blanca is an easy and snowy slope (with a trail in the central part), and crampons are not needed in most cases. Head west the depression or valley above Cuesta Blanca and turn to the left (south) before the end; a natural circus is found, and second camp is set (Pirca de Indio, 16740 ft). (This second camp, due to its particular location and characteristics, is crucial; the lack of oxygen usually aggravates the symptoms of altitude illness if climbers are not well previously acclimatized). From Pirca de Indios, and after ascending a short slope tracked over the east hand of the circus, an important north-south ridge is reached, which drives you directly to the third camp at the base of a big snow capped area called La Ollada, where a famous soldier grave (Tumba del Gendarme) or a mule skeleton signs the bases for camping. This last camp is very windy and not sufficiently protected against the Pacific's storms. From La Ollada (19350 ft) the way to the summit is very clear: a very long east-west ridge situated on the left hand. There are a few false summits on the way (the real one is the last, directly exposed to the west wall, with amazing views of the Pacific Ocean, Aconcagua, and all the Andeans valleys). Mercedario Normal Route can be considered as a hard walk in high altitude, and at least 10 to 12 days are needed for the whole trip.
South Face (or Japanese Route):
45° - 55° ice slope running between two major glaciers. Whilst it can certainly be considered a technical route, it is however fairly safe and well protected with gorgeous views out over the entire Ramada Range. A good idea for acclimatization climbs is Cerro Negro Peak either by its normal route or via the Southern couloir.
From Santa Ana, follow Colorado River up to the final valley called 'Valle del Colorado´ (an intermediate camp can be set during the approaching hike at Corredores (3000 m). Base Camp can be set in Pirca de Polacos (3600 m). The climb is a moderate 45-60 degrees plain and safe glacier (actually the route goes between two glaciers: Karpinski on the right and Ostrowski on the left). Crampons, piolets (not necessary technical) and a rope (just for crossing the crevasse at the entrance and a few more crevasses in the upper part of Caballito Glacier) are needed (it is not recommended to use the rope within the slope). The best snow conditions for this route are in November - December. The route itself has only one camp at the top of the wall, in a place called La Mesada (5900 m). The summit is 6 hours far from La Mesada, crossing the upper part of Caballito Glacier and following the final ridge to the west. Mercedario South Face Route can be considered as a safe and enjoyable ice route with wonderful views; the knowledge of basic ice techniques is required. A very good alternative for acclimatizing before South Face is to try Negro Peak (5600 m) by its normal route (just in front of Pirca de Polacos) or by its couloir (bit more west).
East Face (or Caballito Glacier):
It consists of a short approach from Guanaquito (Normal Route BC) following the creek on the left or Laguna Blanca creek (the one on the right is Cuesta Blanca creek). The route faces directly to East and is the face that can be seen from Barreal. This route is of moderate difficulty and follows a 45° (maximum) ice ramp up the left side of the glacial channel. Crampons, ice-axes, helmet, climbing rope (for transit over the upper glacier and its crevasse hazard) along with a couple of ice screws and stakes for protection are required for undertaking this route. Camps sites are flexible, especially if carrying a snow shovel to level a site. Although requiring a small deviation La Mesada Camp (of the South Face route) can be used for a high camp. From La Mesada the summit can be reached in around 8 to 10 hours. Considering the distance between Guanaquito and the base of the Caballito Glacier is only four hours, descent can be made by the normal route. An alternative descent route is via La Ollada glacier from the summit, instead of turning off to reach Pirca de Indios Camp, continue to the East through the La Ollada valley until reaching the Laguna Blanca creek.
West Wall or Argentinean Route:
The route is 1600m of mixed rock and ice and has been not been repeated or attempted since the first ascent (at time of print). There are two options for accessing the base of the West wall; 1. Via the Espinacito Pass, and passing through the Valle de los Patos Sur before following the Mercedario River to its source. 2. The quicker and perhaps simpler option is via El Peine (5300 m) followed by Filo Helado Pass from Pirca de Polacos in Valle del Colorado. The West wall is a highly demanding and particularly cold route being largely sheltered from the sun's warming rays. The camps largely consist of uncomfortable platforms; however, these are reasonably well protected from avalanches since the route mainly follows a straight line by a ridge. It is important to consider taking smaller sized tents as some of the platforms are quite restrictive. The average gradient is 50°, intersected with vertical rock steps to be overcome. It is recommended to carry a helmet, crampons, ice-axes, ropes, as well as passive and active protections (middle size cams, nuts, and pitons) and cord. Descent can be made via either the South face or the normal route. Regardless of choice the required logistic issues should be considered prior to departure.
This is everything I've managed to put together so far if ye have any questions feel free to get in touch me I have nothing better to do. Hopefully ill be up for the committee meeting of week 9(Can we make it a Thursday).
That's all folks
MAC
