Club Trad Trip to Pembroke

[darraghc]

I’d prefer if people didn’t jump to conclusions and actually look at both areas.

woodsy, in regards weather: North Wales is a very wet area with “an average of 4,473 millimetres (176 in) rain a year at Crib Goch in Snowdonia, Gwynedd (making it also the wettest spot in the United Kingdom)”. Good weather is crucial here, the Pembrokeshire area only recieves around 1,300 mm of rain a year.

The veriety of rock is great in North Wales, but only for advanced climbers. I couldn’t imagine putting any begginers on granite, grit or basalt rock as it is very sparsely protected and consists of sloped holds. I myself wouldn’t risk it yet. Also, the slate there is a Quary, which is a sport crag....no trad here...

Pembroke has a wide veriety in Limestone and Sandstone crags.
All crags in Pembroke are close-by(many literaly next to each other). Imagine having an advanced and beginner crag next to each other; advanced climbers could teach beginners yet climb what they want all in the same day. That way everyone is happy. Hard climbers can climb hard and beginners can learn and gain confidence; that is what this trip should be about; not just advanced climbers being stuck teaching and belaying all day or advanced climbers running off leaving beginners behind, but both groups(and those in between) getting the most out of the trip!

I’m not saying I’m in favour of Pembroke, I’m saying people should take the time to look at both areas in detail and concider all climbers, and not whether there is a student city nearby (this is a climbing trip for people interested in climbing(no matter what level), and we all know the OPC are well capable of having their own craic!). If people don’t do that, there’s no point ,in my opinion, in having a pole, it’s just becoming a debate!

Also, climbing in Ireland has already gotten underway with the weekend climbing trips. Last weekend we had an amazing time at the Burren, teaching beginners and climbing some great routes from S’s to HVS and E1 grades; nobody was made suffer.

[thecolm]

Another point that shouldnt be overlooked is that pembrokes mostly south facing cliffs would dry alot quicker. Its the difference between a crag staying sopping wet for ages as against being dry in an hour or 2 as long as the sun comes out.

While it would be great to have Gahan tag along, we will have plenty of experienced climbers and plently of enthusiasm (Aidan ) and will definately not be short any trad climbing know how.

On another point, I'v noticed that the UL easter holiday falls between the 29th of March and the 5th of April. Am I right in presuming that we would be leaving either Friday the 26th or Saturday the 27th (as long as the L2L course is on the week before) and returning Monday the 5th? Just sorting days off work etc.

Also, has a decision been made on what the plan is if the L2L course falls on the weekend of the 27th/28th?
Is it necessary for everyone to travel together or can those of us not doing it leave on the Firday/Saturday? Would be great to get some feedback on this if possible. The latter would be great as long as no one has any issue with it.

Thanks,
Colm

[Mitch]

This is getting a little ridiculous lads.
Darragh kindly opened this up for discussion to get an idea of what the majority wanted and all I see is the same 2 people arguing over it, and frankly, the same arguments just keep coming up with no decisions being made.

Personally, the way I see it, Darragh is clearly doing his best to keep everyone happy. He's done his homework on the locations and is taking climbers of all levels into account. Given that you all can't make a decision between you, and seeing as how he was appointed climbing officer by yourselves and in the end he's the one organizing the trip, surely the final decision should be his.

He asked for your input, you gave it, he took it into account and now a decision needs to be made. Whatever's decided I'm sure it'll be a great trip for everyone so quit the bickering and just get the ball rolling already.

[thecolm]

MITCHIN-IMPOSSIBLE

we shall follow the darragh so

now i really should go do some work... hmmm

[Superboy]

Spain would be cooler, because it's hotter.

[darraghc]

Right, I've got both the pembroke guidebook as well as the North Wales Rock guidebook, I'll do a bit more extensive study on them and take everything into the equation, including everything said in this thread; if anyone wants to give any opinions or anything I'm all ears...

[woodsy]

mitch, a discussion is likely to take place when it involves different areas. This thread has has many different inputs from hugely influential people past and present, none of it is bickering. I'm quite understanding of both sides and while clearly favouring one i know that there might be a better climbing trip in pembroke. I think the fact that you have declared it as a conflict is quite unreasonable as myself dara colm and the rest fully appreciate the value of this trip to others and ourselves should not be made out to be completely conflicting .

Enough said, Darragh I'm fully behind whatever decision you make as I trust you and your decision making.

End of. I apologise if i came across harshly in some posts i just wish to make sure everyone is looked after and everything is considered

[Duecewilder]

can i just ask why is italy out of the question... theres supposed to be ridiculous climbing there... and would wales not be a coin flip with weather? like italy spain places like that would much more likely to b dry for the week.. which mould mean more climbing. i'm down for whatever and Daragh's decision will be cool whatever. I'm not a big trad head as such (Yet) so climbing is climbing to me the more diff types of climbing u do the better u become in my book... but i just think climbing in the likes of spain/italy would be a serious experience regardless of it being sport or trad.. deep water soloing or even bouldering... like personally id love to deep water solo in thailand but im guessing thats off the budget cos of boats and stuff.... but like we could organize a trip to fair head any weekend its dry and camp out and get some serious trad done.... surely the easter climbing trip should be as much about the experience and the craic of climbing with the group abroad as the climbing itself...?

[thecolm]

come out to the burren wit us da next weekend and we'll bait that sport climbing talk outta ya

[Ginge]

The other problem that exists Aidan is money. The club can only subsidise so much and even at that a trip to spain would most likely cost €200-€300 (depending on flights could be even more) let alone food etc. Basically it's too expensive for people to pay and I think we can attract more people to Wales.

Not only will there be the experienced Trad Climbers, but also the newly trained ones and then even those who just like climbing and not specifically leading can go as well. We are catering for much more people and a drastically reduced price.

My support is for Wales anyway.

[woodsy]

def better to stick with trad id say. \It will improve your ability to climb here and weill be a big asset for you when you wanna go climbing yourself having had that experience ya know?

Dont worry Aidan there will be plenty sport climbing trips to come

[thecolm]

Just came accross this

www.planetfear.com/articles/Pembrokeshire__The_Best_Limestone_Sea_Cliffs_on_Earth_1005.html

some pretty pics

[darraghc]

Right, finally!! I have chosen; the venue is Pembroke! With more than 3 times less rain than the Snowdonia region I felt I had no choice.....

That said, I definitely believe we should go to North Wales for a summer trip if anyone is interested. If anyone wants to see the great regions check out Neil Gresham's DVD, some serious classic climbing!

Here is the link to the house (houses) we're staying in...www.littleloveston.co.uk/
All crags are between 10 and 30mins drive
There is also a pool, sauna and lots of other cool stuff!

People don't seem to be responding to the weekly e-mail so if you want to come on the trip e-mail me to confirm at [e-mail]

We also need info on who's coming that has a car so as we can get the ferry sorted. If drivers could also email me that would be great.

my twice confirmed list so far is:
Yusuke, Garion, Mitch, Aidan, Colm, Brí-Ann, Tony, Rachel and myself. That's 9 out of the 21 positions filled so get your name in quick; don't expect a place, make sure your name is in!

(We're leaving on the 27th of March in the early hours of the morning and returning on the 4th of April in the afternoon.(That is if we book the ferry on time so I need those driver names!!)

[thecolm]

u have my car :-) monday the 5th is a bank so so a stop by glendo on the way home may be in order :-P o and iv recently discovered how good proper finger tape (ie not the stuff in the pharmacy) is amazin so any1 going should but a roll

[darraghc]

shit didnt know that it was a bank holiday...on our timetables it says we're back on Monday the 5th...btw, where did u get the tape?might need some...